I’ve had the chance to visit Colombia twice now, my only South American country to date (although working on that!). My first experience was in Cartagena back in 2017. Just last week, I returned to explore Bogotá which surprised me with both the vibrant city life and beautiful surrounding nature. On both trips, the warmth and friendliness of the Colombian people stood out above all.
I’ll dive into the itinerary and highlights from each city below.
Bogota
Date of trip: October 31-November 3rd, 2024
This was a super spontaneous trip to see Paul McCartney on his final tour because I’m the biggest Beatles fan ever. With the last-minute planning, it had to be a short, action-packed getaway. To keep it budget-friendly, we opted to drive six hours to Orlando instead of flying out of Atlanta, which saved us a significant amount on flights but meant we had to drive 12 hours in addition to the flight times.
Day 1: After a 6 hour drive and 4 hour flight, we landed at El Dorado International Airport in Bogotá and due to long customs lines didn’t reach our Airbnb until after midnight.
We stayed in Virrey Park, a neighborhood that felt safe and serene, with a green space, running trail, and a variety of nearby shops and restaurants.
Our Airbnb was an adorable three-story apartment with a rooftop terrace offering mountain views. We chose a two-bedroom, two-bath setup since my friend Jordan joined us in Bogotá for the concert and stayed in the spare room. I’ve linked the Airbnb below for anyone interested in a similar stay.
https://www.airbnb.com/slink/5KZFIkeY
Day 2: I booked what ended up being a very unique experience with a guide. I’ve linked his website and Airbnb booking link below.
https://www.airbnb.com/slink/OEg6qd2U
I used the Uber app to get a cab to the meeting place by 7:30am. It was an easy option given the language barrier and very inexpensive. I met my guide Juan and our driver then we drove approximately 2 hours to Sumapaz.
On the way, we stopped for a traditional Colombian breakfast: a tamale filled with egg, chickpeas, potato, sausage, and chicken, the perfect start to the day.
We walked through a local farmer’s fields and were accompanied by all the animals.
Sumapaz Paramo is a truly unique ecosystem and the largest paramo in the world. I was not prepared for the sheer beauty of the landscape. We started on our 3-hour, 4.5-mile hike, gaining nearly 1,500 feet in elevation. Due to my late arrival the night before, I found the altitude transition more challenging than usual and struggled at times as we climbed to the plateau.
The views, however, were worth every bit of effort. There are sawtooth mountains carved by prehistoric glacial activity and serene glacial lakes. Juan was an exceptional guide, sharing detailed knowledge about the flora and fauna we encountered.
One of the most fascinating plants was the frailejón. I learned from Juan that these unique plants absorb moisture from the atmosphere and direct it into the soil, each contributing up to a liter of water per day—playing a crucial role in sustaining the ecosystem of the entire region.
It began raining on the way down and the scene was absolutely magical (and very muddy).
When we finished the hike, we were welcomed by the farmer who treated us to freshly made arepas and aguapanela—a traditional sugar cane tea. This warm, comforting drink was the perfect way to end the day, reflecting on the incredible experience in the heart of Sumapaz. I wish you could hear the rain hitting the roof. It was so magical.
Here is a similar AllTrails hike but I highly recommend seeking a guide (particularly Juan’s company). In fact, I’m not sure if the trail is accessible according to the AllTrails reviews.
Vuelta Laguna Chisacá – Laguna Negra on AllTrails
Juan dropped me off just as Jordan arrived then we made our way to a super fancy meal at LEO.
We had the 8 course tasting menu with cocktails. It was very interactive experience unlike anything I’ve ever done on my travels- especially given that most of my meals usually come from gas stations.
Every course had a story and was derived from different parts of Colombia. Here is an excerpt from one of the courses.
After dinner we had cocktails at a fabulous bar called Metronomo then made our way home. It felt very safe even pretty late at night.
Day 3: Jordan and I started the morning in our neighborhood at Les Ami’s, a nice French style bakery near our apartment. We bought nearly the whole menu as everything was so delicious.
We took an Uber to the beginning of the Monserrat hike. I profoundly underestimated the difficulty of this city hike. Here is the AllTrails link which quotes a 3.6 mile hike with 1873 feet in elevation gain but we ended up clocking in at 2.11 miles with 2174 feet elevation gain. And I agree with the AllTrails review that says “unrelenting.”
Monserrate via Pilgrims’ Way on AllTrails
So many viewpoints for photos (and much needed breaks).
And little stands for snacks and water. I bought some refreshing pineapple and pretty sure it’s what got me up the mountain.
The views from the top were spectacular
Due to time constraints, we ended up taking the cable car down but I highly recommend the funicular instead as the cable cars were crammed.
When we got to the bottom of Monserrat, we took an Uber to the center of the tourist district La Candeleria. We walked along the squares, soaked in the culture and atmosphere then headed back to our apartment to get ready for the concert.
Paul McCartney was playing at the El Campin Stadium in the center of town. We arrived early and enjoyed meeting all the locals who shared their food and drinks while we bonded over the Beatles. No fancy dinner tonight, we ate street food which was absolutely delicious. The concert and the energy were amazing and I left thinking it was the best night of my life.
Day 4: We booked a full day private tour to include Laguna de Guatavita, the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirà, then ending the evening with dinner at Andres Carne de Res.
I’ve linked the airbnb experience below.
https://www.airbnb.com/slink/RoiJUj8t
We started with a drive to Laguna de Guatavita which was an hour and a half from Bogota. We didn’t stop here but we passed Jaime Duque Park which is a replica of the Taj Mahal. We met some folks that said it was really cool, so you could easily add it to the itinerary.
Laguna de Guatavita was an immersive experience where a guide taught us about the local indigenous culture and the legend of El Dorado.
We climbed approximately 500 feet up over a mile for these views then had arepas before heading the next stop.
The Salt Cathedral in Zipaquira was an hour and a half from the Laguna. Our guide Millie was from here and had worked here making her such a great guide.
We spent a few hours wandering the intricately carved cathedrals within the salt mines.
There was also a spa within the salt mines! I highly recommend reserving at least a massage. We bought lots of salt scrubs as souvenirs.
Our final stop was the famous Andrés Carne de Res, an iconic Colombian restaurant that has traditional food, music and even dancers and entertainment. We each had cocktails and multiple delicious courses.
Day 5: Unfortunately, we had an early flight and had to leave the apartment by 6am for a full day of travel. There was no traffic at this time and it only took around 25 minutes to reach the airport.
We all agreed we’d miss so much about Bogota, particularly our rooftop views. Bogota far exceeded my expectations in food, natural beauty, fun and sense of safety. If I can answer any questions, send me a message and I’m happy to help.
Cartagena
This trip was in January of 2017. It was my first time in Colombia and I really didn’t know what to expect. We found an inexpensive direct flight and booked 5 nights in Hotel Noi Cartagena 1860 in the Old Town district within the walled city.
https://www.hotelnoi1860cartagena.com
This was such a cool boutique hotel converted from an old mansion with only 7 rooms. We had a lovely suite and enjoyed the views from the rooftop pool.
Cartagena was really quite hot during the day but at night, the temperature drops and everything is so lively! Block parties with dancing, outdoor dining, and really great evening views. We escaped to the nearby Rosario islands for three days, and on a whim, even stayed overnight once. It was the perfect mix of city excitement and island relaxation. I’ll outline the details from my favorite parts below.
Old City:
The best part was just wandering through the streets and absorbing the architecture and colors.
Sunset from the walls of the city.
Santa Catalina Cathedral ⬆️
Really cool KGB bar in the old city ⬆️
Sunsets from Hotel Movich rooftop bar. We had cocktails and enjoyed the sunsets on two occasions.
Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas on the edge of the city. Nice fortress with views of the city below
Getsemani:
Again, mostly we just wandered the streets enjoyed the street art and culture. I do recommend Demente Tapas Bar. We ate there twice. I’ve linked some more information and their Instagram profile.
https://www.instagram.com/dementetapasbar?igsh=dXE0NzN1c2drdGs1
Demente Tapas Bar Cartagena – Hi Cartagena
Islands:
It’s so hot during the day in Cartagena that we went to the islands three of our five days. We stayed one night at Hotel Isla del Encanto. It was soooo much better to stay the night than the two day trips we did. It’s super crowded during the day then when the “day trippers” leave, you essentially are on a private island. The two day trips we did went smoothly but just felt too abbreviated. You essentially pay a resort a fee to catch a ride on their shuttle boat then use their facilities. It’s pretty cheap and well worth it but it’s not much more expensive to spend the night. The other island we visited was Gente de Mar and was super nice as well. Probably a little nice than the other but we loved the staff at Isla del Encanto.
My next plan for Colombia is to hike the Lost City Trek near Cartagena and visit Medellin and the surrounding lakes and mountains.
Happy to help plan your Colombian getaway! Reach out or DM with any questions!
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