Date of Trip: November 19-25, 2018
My trip to the Peloponnese Peninsula was my second Thanksgiving escape to Greece. On my first trip, I met Daphne who lived in Houston, but whose family was from Greece. Much of her family still lived there and she had visited countless times—even starting her own Greek travel business. When I mentioned planning another trip, she suggested the Peloponnese and shared detailed recommendations from her most recent visit. While her trip was in the summer and ours was in the winter, her advice became the backbone of our itinerary.
Be sure to follow Daphne for more Greece content
https://www.instagram.com/daphne.designs?igsh=MW12dW02cHp2aXkxdw==
I’ll outline our itinerary below:
Athens 1 night
Monemvasia 1 night
Limeni 2 nights
Kalamata 2 nights
Nafplio 1 night (booked last minute rather than heading back to Athens)
Athens 1 night
Here’s a visual representation of our itinerary
I’ll be covering Athens in a separate post since I’ve been there three times and have so much to share (it’s my favorite big city in the world).
Day 1: We rented a car at the airport and parked conveniently downtown at a MetroPark garage until leaving for the Peloponnese. Just a note about car rental in Athens: I would recommend getting an International Driver’s License as we have been denied car rental on one of my trips. It seems they inconsistently enforce this rule. Driving in Greece was straightforward and not as scary as we imagined. And there are lots of convenience stores and restrooms along the routes.
We drove first to Monemvasia which was 4 hour drive from Athens.
As we made our way, we realized we were passing through Sparta and decided to take a break for lunch. While we didn’t dive into a history tour, we took a leisurely stroll through the central square, soaking in the atmosphere, before enjoying a delicious meal at a local spot.
We got to Monemvasia mid-afternoon, crossing the narrow causeway to this ancient Byzantine fortress. The name means “one way in,” and it fits—stepping through the gate feels like walking into another era.
Note that there are no cars inside the castle walls so we parked outside the gates then carried our luggage to our apartment. Daphne said in the summer there are porters available to carry your things for a small fee.
Daphne recommended to stay on the actual island (inside the Castle) at a hotel called Likinia but they were closed for the season when I attempted to book. So I found a wonderful airbnb which I’ve linked below.
https://www.airbnb.com/slink/fMvOK7WD
We stayed on the lower part of Monemvasia on the sea.
A highlight was exploring the Church of Agia Sofia, perched high above the town. The climb to the upper town was steep, but the views were worth it.
We made our way back down the mountain and enjoyed the scenery.
We ate at Matoula restaurant which had delicious food and wonderful views. There were kitties everywhere to keep us company.
Day 2: I was up for sunrise and walked down the path to the sea for all the colors.
We had a leisurely breakfast at Emvasis Cafe. It was cozy and the food was great.
And enjoyed the views of the castle before heading out.
We left Monemvasia to move on to the Mani Peninsula. Daphne also recommended a boat trip to Elafonisos Island about an hour off the coast of Monemvasia for fabulous beaches (and stay at Capari Hotel if overnight). We didn’t opt to include this off season.
It was 1 hour 45 minute drive to where we were staying near Limeni port.
We stopped at the bigger city nearby called Gytheio to grab lunch and stock up on snacks. We enjoyed this little coastal city and ended up strolling to the lighthouse and taking in the scenes.
We were staying at the En Plo Luxury Suites recommended by Daphne. We had our own apartment and they actually opened the hotel just for us as we were the only guests.
The room was so nice with great views of the sea.
https://enplomani.com/en/home-1/
We spent the evening walking around the property catching the sunset and relaxing.
Day 3: We watched a beautiful sunrise and had a wonderful breakfast at our hotel. We were shocked at the amount of food that was made just for us.
Our host gave us a whole day’s worth of recommendations around the area. So first, we headed to the nearby Diros Caves.
https://www.diros-caves.gr/en/home/
The caves located inside a beautiful bay near Mezapos so we explored the area a bit before moving on
Puppies puppies everywhere
Then we stopped to explore Gerolimenas
Almost fell in ⬆️
Next, we went to explore the abandoned village of Vatheia. It was interesting to explore the abandoned buildings but also the views
We left Vatheia to check out nearby Anatolika beach. It was cool to get to experience these beautiful beaches completely empty.
Next was nearby Porto Kagio which Daphne recommended. Every stop was more beautiful than the last.
Our tour of Mani was essentially over but we decided to stop at the “big town,” of Areopoli to grab some groceries. And I was surprised to find as much beauty there as the other more touristy spots.
We made it back home in time for an outrageously beautiful sunset
We went to dinner that night at the only walkable restaurant, Taverna Faros. It was definitely a highlight of the trip. We were the only patrons so the owner and his family (and puppy) ate with us.
https://www.instagram.com/tavern_faros_?igsh=MTN5NjM3anNodHh5Nw==
We picked our freshly caught fish and they prepared it for us with all the Greek sides.
That was the look I gave when I was told I couldn’t take the puppy home
Day 4: Another beautiful sunrise this morning
I begrudgingly said goodbye to my puppy then we hit the road to Kalamata.
On the way we stopped by the small village of Kardamyli for lunch
We had a delicious Thanksgiving lunch at Aquarella Restaurant
Then strolled the idyllic village
We arrived in Kalamata around 4pm and checked in quickly to our hotel which Daphne had recommended, Garden City Resort. It was outside old town center but very convenient and comfortable.
We went immediately to climb the Castle of Kalamata for sunset views
We walked back to our hotel at dusk.
I was surprised how big Kalamata felt. We ate our Thanksgiving dinner at an American Diner in the square.
Day 5: I planned a roadtrip for us that hit some of the more scenic areas of the Peloponnese: Ancient Ruins of Messene, Pylos and the Venetian Methoni Castle
First stop was Ancient Messene. I wanted to go there to explore the vast ruins but the views were also spectacular. There was a small fee of 5 euros to explore
Next we headed to Pylos where we started in the town square with lunch then headed to explore the Pylos Fortress.
https://visit-pylos-nestor.gr/castles/pilos-niokastro/
It was about a 20 minute walk to the fortress from the town square and then a small fee to enter. The scenery was fabulous and again, no other tourists were there.
The fortress was huge and we walked all along the walls for different vantage points
Next we went to Methoni which was only about 15 minutes away. We arrived just before they were closing but they let us explore quickly.
I would have loved more time here. The Venetian castle was strikingly beautiful as were the surroundings
When we returned to Kalamata, we had an amazing meal at Bistroteca
We sat upstairs in the wine bar area and enjoyed Greek wine tasting and delicious charcuterie.
Day 6: We were supposed to return to Athens for two nights before heading back home but we decided last minute to cut the drive time and stay a night in Nafplio. I found an adorable bed and breakfast with availability and we booked a suite.
We arrived in Nafplio and parked in the paid city lot after dropping off our bags.
The hotel was Gambello Luxury Rooms in a fully restored mansion. I was so impressed with our room.
We walked across the town to climb the 999 steps in nafplion to the Fortress of Palamidi.
The best part of climbing 999 stairs was the views of the city. I’ve linked some information, the cost was 8 euro at the gates
http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=1604
We headed back to the square to have dinner and ended up at a cute cafe with a great patio on Syntagmatos Square
Then we walked to the docks to see the sunset
We walked around Syntagmatos Square, had some coffee then explored the area
A historical reenactment of sorts at the church.
We found a wine store for souvenirs and a B52s record and called it a night.
Day 7: We left after breakfast and returned to Athens before flying home
In closing:
Visiting the Peloponnese in November felt like discovering Greece’s best-kept secret. I experienced all the beauty and charm of the islands—breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality—without any of the crowds (or heat!). If you’re looking for an authentic and peaceful Greek adventure, I can’t recommend it enough. Be sure to check out my next post, where I share the ultimate mainland Greece itinerary I crafted for my mom—it’s packed with must-see spots and tips for exploring! And as always, feel free to reach out with any questions or for recommendations. I’d love to help you plan your own Greek getaway!
Leave a Reply