Date of Trip: April 19-23, 2025
I had never been to Baja California before this trip, and to be honest, I hadn’t even heard of La Paz. But when my dear friends Ana and Demetri moved there, Steve and I were really excited to visit. It was one of the most unexpectedly magical trips we’ve had with ooohhhs and ahhhs around every turn. I did no research prior and had the expectation that the trip would be simply visiting our friends at a typical beach town, but the reality far exceeded my expectations.
La Paz has been called the Pearl of Mexico and I would most certainly agree. From hiking cactus-lined trails that end in crystal-clear turquoise waters, to spotting whales and dolphins just along the road (BREACHERS!!!), to sipping fancy cocktails on the malecón, and best of all, getting to see our friends living out their dreams.
Ana and Demetri were the most generous hosts, with immaculate plans to make the most out of our short trip, even giving up relaxing mornings to catch sunrise after sunrise with me, just because they know how much I love a good vacation sunrise.
If you’re thinking about heading to Baja (or had never even considered it, like me), I hope this guide convinces you to go. I’ll share the hikes, eats, and little moments that made this trip so unforgettable.
🔷Overview of Itinerary:
🔹Day 1: Landed in San Luis Cabo, tacos at Barracuda Cerritos Beach, provisions at Agricole, hiked cliffside at Punta Lobos, explored ToDos Santos, and home to La Paz for street food
🔹Day 2: Sunrise hike overlooking Balandra Beach, downtown La Paz and the Malécon, cocktails at Buzos, fish tacos at Toto Frito, sunset at Playa El Conchalito
🔹Day 3: A lesson from Ana on plankton tows, Jacques Cousteau and John Steinbeck. Whale and dolphin sightseeing on 163 north of La Paz, desert hike San Juan de la Costa, sunset at Baja Club, dinner at Tres Virgines
🔹Day 4: The most magical last day. Sunrise hike overlooking the most beautiful beach-Playa el Muertito, brunch downtown La Paz, buying a beautiful traditional coverlet downtown at Nopal, searching for Piña Coladas as big as our heads, sunset dinner and cocktails at Jardin Escondido, Beach Club La Concha where I had “uno mas vino por favor” a few too many times
🔹Day 5: Transport van from La Paz to Los Cabos International Airport (2.5 hours)
Day 1: Took a direct morning flight from Atlanta to Los Cabos International Airport on Delta. Customs was a breeze, the airport was easy to navigate and our friends picked us up around noon. Since it was about a 3 hour drive to La Paz, Demetri had a strategic plan to break up the drive and hit some of the area’s highlights.
First stop was food of course. It was a 45 minute drive to Cerritos Beach where we went to the popular Barracuda Tacos.



They had a surprisingly vegetarian-friendly menu. I got a sweet potato burrito and we all shared some delectable fish tacos.

Took an after lunch stroll for our first view of the ocean
Next stop was to grab provisions for the hike at Agricole Co-op which is famous for their fresas con crema, fresh strawberries in cream with coconut and tapioca. We obviously got a tub to share and also some interesting trail mixes for the hike.




Cocina de Campo by Agricole is a very nice farm‑to‑table restaurant with gardens and a lively outdoor vibe. We didn’t have time for a sit-down meal, but definitely planning to go next trip.



The next stop was a short hike with stunning views along the beach and coastline. I’ve linked the exact trail. Definitely bring your binoculars to look for wildlife and keep in mind there was no shade. It’s 3.8 miles out and back (more like up and down), starting at the beach and climbing a little cliff.
📍 Punta Lobos – Todos Santos Beach on AllTrails













After our hike, we drove to nearby Todos Santos which is an artsy town with great shops and quirky scenery.

We went to Oystera first and sat in the garden for drinks and some live music.




After catching a little buzz we walked through the vibrant streets of Todos Santos. Demetri bought some leather shoes, Steve posed for sunset and Ana and I were happy just to wander.













We drove the one hour to La Paz in time for a delicious street taco dinner then called it a night.

Day 2: My friends truly love me because they agreed to accommodate my love of sunrises and we woke up at 4:15 to catch the most awe-inspiring one at Balandra Beach.
Here’s the AllTrails info
Balandra Viewpoint – El Diablo Point on AllTrails

We started at 5:45am and there were already a few other hikers on the trail. Apparently later in the morning there is a long line of traffic waiting for entry into the national park



The first glimpse of pink was only about a 15 minute walk from the parking lot.






Ana had to drag me away from that view promising it would get better (and it did)




We climbed to the peak for views of Balandra Beach below

And watched the sun rise over the mountains





You could see the shallow part of the beach making a seashell pattern— incredible











After our photo shoots, the sea completely changed color with the sun’s new position in the sky









On the way back home for a nap, we drove through Puerta Cortez (costa Baja), Pedegral and Pichiligue. While we didn’t stop to explore, if you have time and energy, I’d recommend it

A wonderful backyard siesta from Ana and Demetri’s house which is only a few blocks from Playa El Conchalito






Before heading out for the afternoon, Ana shared some of her favorite excerpts from the Sea of Cortez. I found it interesting that it was actually an old Mexican folklore that inspired John Steinbeck’s famous The Pearl. It’s Ana’s dream to voyage on the original Western Flyer ship for a scientific expedition. La Paz is full of diverse sea life and has always attracted the world’s greatest explorers. Jacques Gustow once called La Paz The World’s Aquarium.

Next we drove down to the Malecon to explore, do some shopping for local souvenirs and of course, enjoy the food.





Buzos was our first pit stop for cocktails literally the size of our heads.





Then just popped around enjoying the photo opportunities.






Bought some traditional cloth napkins (that of course I don’t let anyone actually use because they’re so special).




Next we grabbed some fish tacos from a local favorite, Toto Frito



And enjoyed rooftop views

Sun protection is super important



We made our way to Playa El Conchalito for a gorgeous sunset with the babies.







Day 3: I am so lucky to have a friend like Demetri. We opted for a slow morning and a delicious homemade breakfast.



The amount of love and planning that went into our La Paz trip still makes me smile. My friends made handwritten day-by-day notes so every moment felt intentional and special.


And this morning we even had a plankton lesson from Ana

We set off after a restorative morning to do a canyon hike (and a little herping — for non-herpers, that means snake hunting). We must have stopped fifteen times along 163 North to marvel at the beauty and to catch a glimpse of whales and dolphins!!







San Juan de la Costa on AllTrails
Next came the hike I’ve linked below. It’s one of the most unique landscapes I’ve hiked. We saw lots of wildlife (like birds,horses and donkeys), but unfortunately for Ana, not too many snakes this trip.













Rode to look for our next homestead by the mines



After grabbing some paletas, we headed back to La Paz to enjoy the street art in our neighborhood



Then to the Malecon for sunset and dinner. Traffic was bad so demetri and I hopped out for some sunset photo ops on the way to drinks and dinner.






Our first stop was Baja Club Hotel for sunset drinks. The hotel itself is stunning and the views from the rooftop bar were gorgeous. Unfortunately there are certain nights reserved for hotel guests only. Demetri and I just walzed in and were able to snap these pics. But when Steve and Ana made it, we were informed of the policy and politely escorted out.








Next on our adventure was an amazing dinner at Tres Virgines restaurant. The cocktails were spectacular.




Day 4: Our final day called for a spectacular sunrise. We arrived to the trailhead (link below) to start the Cerro Sebastopol hike at Playa el Muertito by 5:45am to catch sunrise.
Playa el Muertito – Cerro Sebastopol on AllTrails
The trail is a quick 2.13 mile hike climbing 899 feet up for a breathtaking overview of both the desert and crystal clear beach below.
Demetri found out that Playa el Muertito is sometimes called “the skull of the sea” — from above, the reef and sandbars form what looks like a giant skull beneath the surface. The eerie pattern comes from the way rocks, light, and shadows play across the shallow water.
Unfortunately I didn’t capture the skull from my aerial vantage point but here are some Google Map images.



And here are the photos from the hike which you just have to see to believe how beautiful































After the hike, we drove right on the beach and spent a few hours relaxing






And because of our early start, we made it to La Paz in time for brunch





There were so many lovely corridors to explore including this beautifully serene garden




One of my favorite shops was Nopal where we bought a traditional coverlet and some locally made jewelry.




After a little siesta, we started our afternoon/evening out with some piña smoothies from
El Terraplén Cocos and Frutas Locas
Cocos and Pinas Lokos


Then spent the next four glorious hours having snacks and drinks at Jardin Escondido located in the La Concha Beach Club. We had such a lovely evening catching the sunset, learning Spanish (uno mas vino por favor), and just soaking up the final moments with our friends in paradise.









Day 5: We relived our evening with Ana who was home packing for her plankton expedition, had a yummy farewell breakfast in bed then took a shuttle back to Cabo.



To close: La Paz gave us the backdrop for an incredible adventure, but it was Ana and Demetri’s hospitality that gave it meaning. With ranchero music as the soundtrack, I’ll carry the most special memories of this unforgettable trip to La Paz.
This would be a hard one to replicate, but as always, if I can help you plan a Baja getaway don’t hesitate to reach out.



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